How to Treat Sulfur Odors in Well Water (Rotten‑Egg Smell)
A “rotten‑egg” smell usually comes from hydrogen sulfide (H2S) gas produced in low‑oxygen groundwater or by sulfur‑reducing bacteria. Sometimes the odor is only in the hot water—a sign of a reaction inside the water heater (anode rod). The right fix depends on where you smell it and how strong it is. :contentReference[oaicite:0]{index=0}
Fix It Fast: Iron & Sulfur AIO Filter Add Catalytic Carbon (Polish) Install Big Blue Prefilter UV for Bacteria (Safety Net)
Step 1 — Diagnose the Source (60‑second checks)
Cold vs. Hot vs. One Fixture
- Cold + hot smell at multiple taps → likely H2S in the well/supply (treat the whole home).
- Hot water only → common reaction in the water heater (magnesium anode reacting with sulfate); consider an anode change and heater disinfection. :contentReference[oaicite:1]{index=1}
- One sink or drain → may be drain biofilm/sewer gas; fill the P‑trap and disinfect the drain (water itself may be fine).
Quick safety notes
- If the smell is in the air, not the water, rule out a gas leak or sewer issue.
- Test before you buy: For persistent odor, measure H2S (mg/L), iron, manganese, pH—treatment choice and sizing depend on levels. :contentReference[oaicite:2]{index=2}
Step 2 — Pick the Right Treatment (by odor strength & cause)
Most noses detect H2S around ~0.5–1 mg/L; stronger smells suggest higher levels. Hydrogen sulfide is generally a nuisance (aesthetic) contaminant—corrosive and smelly—but not regulated with a federal primary MCL. :contentReference[oaicite:3]{index=3}
For water from the well (cold & hot smell)
- Low odor (<≈1 mg/L) — adsorb or aerate • Whole‑home catalytic carbon or carbon filter to remove the smell; aeration is another low‑level option. :contentReference[oaicite:4]{index=4}
- Moderate (≈1–5 mg/L) — oxidize + filter • Install an air‑injection oxidizing (AIO) iron & sulfur filter (manganese dioxide/catalytic media) to convert H2S to elemental sulfur and trap it. Follow with catalytic carbon to polish taste/odor. :contentReference[oaicite:5]{index=5}
- High (>≈5 mg/L) — chemical oxidation + contact time + carbon • Dose a small amount of chlorine or hydrogen peroxide with a metering pump, use a retention/contact tank for reaction time, then filter with catalytic carbon. :contentReference[oaicite:6]{index=6}
- Microbial risk too? — add UV after filtration • H2S treatment does not disinfect; add whole‑home UV as a final barrier for bacteria/viruses (especially on private wells). :contentReference[oaicite:7]{index=7}
For odor in hot water only (water heater)
- Flush and disinfect the heater; check temperature per manufacturer guidance.
- Replace a magnesium anode with an aluminum‑zinc or powered anode designed to reduce odor; consult your plumber and warranty. :contentReference[oaicite:8]{index=8}
- If your well also has some H2S, fix the source with an AIO filter so the odor doesn’t return. :contentReference[oaicite:9]{index=9}
Step 3 — Your Fast Fix: Proven Stack
- Prefilter (sediment) → Pentek Big Blue
- Oxidize & filter H2S → Iron & Sulfur AIO
- Polish taste/odor → Catalytic Carbon
- Disinfect (optional but smart) → VIQUA Whole‑Home UV
- Drinking water perfection → Under‑sink RO (50 GPD)
If odor is very strong, swap step 2 for metered oxidant feed + retention tank, then carbon (step 3). :contentReference[oaicite:10]{index=10}
Shop Iron & Sulfur AIO Filter Shop Catalytic Carbon Shop Chemical Feed Pump Shop VIQUA UV
Quick FAQ
Is hydrogen sulfide dangerous?
At typical household levels it’s mainly an aesthetic and corrosivity problem, not a regulated primary health standard. Very high concentrations smell overwhelming and make water unusable long before health limits are reached. :contentReference[oaicite:11]{index=11}
Will a softener remove sulfur smell?
No. Treat H2S before the softener; raw iron/sulfur can foul resin. Use AIO or chemical oxidation + carbon first. :contentReference[oaicite:12]{index=12}
What if the smell comes back?
Check prefilter loading and backwash rates on the AIO. Replace carbon on schedule. If only the hot water smells, revisit the heater anode and disinfect the tank. :contentReference[oaicite:13]{index=13}
Do I need UV?
UV doesn’t remove H2S, but it’s a proven barrier for bacteria/viruses in private wells. Add UV after filtration stages. :contentReference[oaicite:14]{index=14}
Need help matching a system to your test?
Email your lab report to housetechplus@gmail.com or call 813‑369‑1317. We’ll map your H2S, iron, manganese and flow to the right tank size, media, backwash rate, and UV GPM.
Important Notes
- Always test before purchase and after installation to confirm results; follow your state’s private‑well guidance. :contentReference[oaicite:15]{index=15}
- EPA classifies odor/taste as secondary (aesthetic) concerns; utilities use secondary standards as guidance. Private wells are owner‑managed. :contentReference[oaicite:16]{index=16}
- If you suspect a gas leak or sewer issue (odor in room air, not just water), contact local utilities or a licensed plumber immediately.
Iron in Well Water: How to Identify, Test at Home, and Fix It
Red stains on fixtures? Metallic taste? Brown water after a rain? You’re likely dealing with iron in your well. This guide shows you how to identify what kind of iron you have, test it at home, and choose the right whole-home fix.
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Contents
- Quick signs you have iron
- Types of iron (ferrous, ferric, iron bacteria)
- How to test iron at home (60-second + strip + lab)
- Pick the right treatment (by iron type & level)
- Fast fix: Proven whole-home stack
- FAQ
Quick signs you have iron
- Reddish/orange stains on sinks, tubs, toilets, washers.
- Metallic taste; tea/coffee tastes off.
- Clear water that turns yellow/brown after sitting (ferrous oxidizing to ferric).
- Slimy, reddish-brown film in toilet tank or filters (possible iron bacteria).
Types of iron in well water
Ferrous (clear-water iron)
Dissolved and invisible at the tap; stains form after exposure to air.
Ferric (red-water iron)
Already oxidized; water is yellow/orange/brown as it leaves the tap.
Iron bacteria
Microbes that feed on iron; produce slimy, rusty films and odors. Needs disinfection + filtration.
How to test iron at home
- 60-second checks: Fill a clear glass. If it’s clear but turns yellow/brown in minutes → ferrous likely. If colored immediately → ferric.
- Strips/meters: Use at-home total iron strips (track mg/L) + note pH and hardness (sizing + media choice depend on these).
- Lab test: For persistent issues, order a full well panel (iron, manganese, pH, alkalinity, TDS, bacteria).
Pick the right treatment (by type & level)
Ferrous (clear-water) iron
- Up to ~3 mg/L: Oxidizing media (AIO air-injection with manganese dioxide/catalytic media) or specialized softener (if low manganese & no H₂S).
- ~3–10 mg/L: AIO iron filter sized to GPM + backwash rate; follow with catalytic carbon to polish.
- >10 mg/L or tough water: Chemical oxidation (chlorine or hydrogen peroxide) + contact/retention tank → catalytic carbon.
Ferric (red-water) iron
- Use sediment/big-blue prefilter (5–20 µm) to catch particulates → oxidizing iron filter → catalytic carbon for taste.
Iron bacteria present?
- Shock chlorinate/disinfect the well/plumbing per local guidance, then run a controlled chemical feed + contact tank and post-filtering.
- Add UV after filtration as a final barrier (bacteria/viruses).
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Fast Fix: Proven Whole-Home Stack
- Prefilter: 5–20 µm big-blue sediment
- Primary: AIO iron filter sized to your GPM/backwash
- Polish: Catalytic carbon for taste/odor
- Safety: UV (recommended for private wells)
- Drinking: Under-sink RO at the kitchen
FAQ: Iron in Well Water
Is iron in well water harmful?
Iron is primarily an aesthetic/nuisance issue (taste, stains). Very high levels can impact plumbing/appliances and may indicate other water quality concerns—test to be sure.
Will a water softener remove iron?
Softening can handle small amounts of ferrous iron when properly configured, but it’s easy to foul resin. For most homes, use a dedicated iron filter ahead of the softener.
What if I have iron bacteria?
Disinfect (shock chlorination) + filtered chemical feed/retention + catalytic carbon, then consider UV after filtration.
What size iron filter do I need?
Match to well pump GPM and backwash requirements for the media. Under-size = clogs & poor performance. Ask us with your GPM, iron level, pH, and manganese.